Burgundy has gotten really expensive in the last 7+ years. A lot of Bourgogne could be had around the $20 mark and could be quite good 7+ years ago. Now it seems really good Bourgogne is $50 & up from a really good to great producer. There are still some wines around the $20 mark if you look hard enough, but that is getting really hard these days. Especially when it comes to Pinot Noir. Which begs the question. Is there still value to be found in a region where celebrated bottles can cost as much as a car? I guess that depends on how you define the word value. For some consumers value wines are under $20 & anything above $20 is a splurge. For other consumers value can be found in wines north of $100 & up. That’s quite a big spread, but a topic for another day. So where does one look for really good value Bourgogne? I think the Cote Chalonnaise is a great place to look & one that may often be overlooked for Pinot Noir. The wine I’m drinking is owned by Aubert De Villaine who until recently was co-owner of the famed DRC. Those wines are extremely expensive & usually only allocated to the best customers in retail shops or clients on the WD private client list. They can be found in high end restaurants, but be prepared to pay a small fortune if you spot one. However, most consumers are unaware that Aubert & his wife Pamela own a small domaine in Bouzeron, Cote Chalonnaise where they reside & which is now run by his nephew Pierre de Benoist. These wines are made with the same care & attention, but cost a tiny fraction of the price. These are so cheap in comparison, I feel like I’ve won the lottery every time I pop a bottle. Even though he was running one of the world’s best domaines & upholding an international reputation, he was still free to retreat to Bouzeron which is off the beaten path & make wine without everyone looking over his shoulder. When the estate was purchased it was pretty run down. But careful study of the of the unique terroir have made them pioneers in one of the last areas of Burgundy that still offer incredible value. The monks of the great abbey of Cluny first planted vines in the 12th century that has now endured for centuries. They employ an organic & biodynamic approach in the vineyards & are fully convinced this is the way. The La Digoine I’m drinking is a small monopole at 1.8 ha & located on the slopes of the Montagne de L’Ermitage. The vines are 35 to 45 years old. The soil is clay & limestone. They use two-thirds whole clusters & age the wine in wood barrels for two years. I bet you’re asking what it tastes like. Well I’ll tell you. The nose offers red fruits, spices, fragrant flowers & some peppery notes. The palate has high toned red fruits, noticeable spice with a candied like fruit in the mid palate with florals, a green tea quality, medium acidity & just a hint of creamy oak in a softer body with a lovely finish. This isn’t cheap at $72.99, but when compared other pinot noir of the same quality this is a big bargain & a personal favorite. It’s available in our store.
Domaine De Villaine Bourgogne Cote Chalonnaise La Digoine 2023
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